Last summer of 2007,
I was in Sogod, Southern Leyte, and this
sunny afternoon, as I was going to downtown
Sogod from the barangay of Salvacion,
I happened to stop and stand on the deck
of a bridge, a steel and concrete bridge
on the edge of the hills, on which Maharlika
highway connects the barangays of Suba
and Hibod-hibod. Looking down below and
veiled not by the shadow of the hills,
lies the famous household name of Sogod
that evokes its bigness “Subangdaku”.
It is a big, beautiful river, the color
of a clear blue sky, on whose ripples
sired the glitters, like sparkling jewels
that might have fallen from the sky; and
as in the way it was, still defining itself
on the map, on ancestral stories told
and retold.
I stopped again on
Pandan bridge, the bridge on the west
side of the riverbed, which is about over
a kilometer northeast of Sogod. It was
as if, on the wide and open riverbed,
there was a cultural performance. Why
on the riverbed? Why not in downtown Sogod,
where the clatters of motorcabs could
have add new flavor to a culture? For
a moment, I stood a moment, the moment
when I forgot that I am who I had been
part of Subangdaku; then, in a sudden
nostalgic reflection from childhood memories,
my eyes anchored to where the old highway
to Libagon used to be. It was an old gravel
road, the road that was only paved, not
with concrete, but with many memory imprints
of supernatural phenomena than shuddering
potholes could be counted. It was once
a part of the many alluring mystiques
of Subangdaku, where three low structure
of wood-planked bridges stood, without
fear of the river, without railings; and
one was without a river, abandoned, like
a mournful table emptied by its chairs
until what it remembers.
On the east side of
the riverbed: wisp of dust hung low, the
secretions from bulldozers’ blades
over a cone-shaped mound of gravel that,
like a temple pyramid, is an illusion,
not the evocation of a culture, or of
an ancient architecture. It is the quarrying
in Subangdaku, and the commercial selling
of sand and gravel to Cebu and to other
provinces that confuse the eye. This is
what quarrying can infect Subangdaku,
when entrepreneurs harvest the surroundings,
as environmentalists can only look on
its flowering, as politicians worry from
low tax quarry remittance for the province,
while Sogodnons sigh over the ruins. On
the west side, what the engineer’s
transit pinned on the hand stone of mason
workers, stretch of concrete wall embankments
were shaped, hardened for the re-channeling
of the river; and before it: an open shed
with indigenous coconut palms as roof
covering, which, if neatly stacked, would
seem to resemble a tropical delight against
a backdrop of the tormented river.
Imagine the landscape
on which Subangdaku is to look at: unoriginal,
hollowed like a scar that contain more
pain than when it was hollowed. The destructions
equal to that of a corrupted culture,
broken as to a diluted language that,
its tone, its rhythm, are melodies that
do not echo with the original language.
Like the intended victims of a sacrifice
to the Gods, those sand and gravel are
sold out from the necessity for a very
lucrative complacency; a perfect patchwork
of sand and gravel on which to bask, waiting,
and waiting until the hungry crocodiles
could pad their meager beginnings. Hear
the crusher crushing in Subangdaku; feel
the crackles of gravel that echo with
far more greater pain than the pain that
is joy to a few, but what the pain is
to the ordinary commonness of people,
is a shrug askance to the ruins, like
a sigh.
The sigh of Subangdaku
echoes an elegy, the whisper of a claim,
of a belief in the stigma that bleeds
on its fragmented history. Apart from
the decimation of fish sanctuaries, it
rises over of what greatness had not floated
on: our human greed, our fear of the river-
the kind of fear that are fearful than
birds would to raindrops. Subangdaku river
only seeks its own level, like faith that
is religion. It only inhabits its own
geography, creek by creek, riverbank by
riverbank, on whose music are as harmless
as the rustles of the leaves, so that
every nuance in their sanctuaries, is
in rival mix of natural splendor. It is
not for me to deny progress at its best,
yet how easy is it to blame Subangdaku
for its floods, than to forgive a mountain
for its landslides. The way sunlight is
to the leaves, expensive homes are built
closer to the sea, to white sand beaches,
as though, white sand beaches are good
for complexion; and when the morning mist
makes sense in the tropics, life would
seem as simple and as enviable as a sunset;
a ferment until what tsunami could save
to remember, like a sigh.
About four decades
ago, Subangdaku abandoned the bridge on
the old highway. If it fails to remember
the bridge and in its bigness becomes
an inmate inside the prison-like walls
of re-channeling, what would be the name?
